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A guide to sailing Jersey

A guide to sailing Jersey

Black and white illustration of a seaside fortress with a tower, surrounded by water. Birds fly in the sky with scattered clouds and a sun.

Sail, Moor, Eat
Part 2: A guide to sailing Jersey

In part 2 of our Channel Islands Sail, Moor, Eat guide, we continue our voyage on to the Bailiwick of Jersey.

Jersey

Jersey is renowned for the potato, creamy milk and well, finance.  However, these well-known exports don’t really do justice to the largest Channel Island. A moniker that is quite often claimed, all over the globe, but ask any resident of Jersey and they will swear that they have the best sunsets, bays and beaches ‘in the world’.  We will leave you to be the judge of that, but the largest channel island is indeed a thing of beauty, with excellent beaches, tons of history, fantastic cuisine, duty-free shopping and proudly holding the official title of the sunniest spot in the British Isles.

The capital, St Helier, is the only permitted port of entry in the Channel Islands, but driven by the finance industry it exudes less rustic charm and is more an incredibly glamourous playground for the rich; that isn’t to downgrade its allure – visit here for Michelin starred restaurants and upmarket bars and nightclubs.

A line drawing of a hand tying a knot with a rope around an object shaped like a chair or scaffolding.

The approach to St Helier is clearly defined but the currents are strong, the route is busy with commercial ships, the weather is unpredictable and as ever keep your eyes on the tide; in Spring they have been known to reach up to 40 feet.  Access is only available 3 hours each side of high water so if you have timed it wrong, there is a pontoon to the west side of the main harbour.  Elizabeth Marina itself is very sheltered and has 200 spaces for visiting yachts, usually located on piers A, D, E & F.  In summer be prepared to raft as it gets very busy.  On your approach, remember to keep your radio tuned to Channel 14 since it is a commercial port.

Eating in Jersey is to be handed the world on a plate, but of course, like all the islands, it is the seafood, fished directly from the waters, that is especially world-class.  Quayside Seafood Restaurant in St Helier is a perfect spot for lunch; or eat at one of the many great cafes and restaurants that fill its streets.  Try local favourites of crab sandwich (from locally caught spider crabs) or battered fried Ormers (a type of abalone) and of course make sure you order a side of those famous Jersey Royals; the secret to their unique taste comes from seaweed, harvested from local beaches, and used as a fertiliser.

Black and white illustration of a crab with detailed claws and body, facing forward.

Perhaps, a lesser-known treat are Jersey wonders – a smaller, rounder version of traditional churros.  These donuts are ripe for dipping in Nutella, Custard or the famous La Niere Buerre (Black Butter), a sort of medieval apple sauce made from roasting peeled apples with cider, sugar, spices, liquorice and lemons.

As a FYI, if you are lucky enough to take the whole summer off then St Helier’s Elizabeth Marina allows UK boat owners to berth your boat throughout the summer offering the perfect jumping off point for all the other islands and to explore the French coast.

Black and white illustration of a soft-serve ice cream cone with a wavy swirl on top.

As an alternative to the glitz and glam, head to the east side of Jersey, to the enchanting Gorey Harbour.  Adorned with colourful houses, al fresco dining spots and overseen by the magnificent 13th century Mont Orgueil Castle (also known as Gorey’s Castle).  It is the perfect backdrop to take a leisurely stroll on St Martin beach and enjoy an ice cream from the great little café Rhona’s At The Beach and to try Jersey’s famous Black Butter flavour.  The treacherous reefs that lie off the east coast can make the 13 nautical miles from St Helier, a much more challenging sail than you might expect but take it cautiously and it’s worth the trip.  There is shelter and moorings inside the marina, visitor buoys on the south-west edge and some upper beach moorings available (but only during the summer months).

Venture to the harbour at St Brelade’s Bay and take a daring leap off the old pier or drop anchor east of the inner jetty to bask in the splendour of the palm-fringed beach, consistently ranked among the top 3 beaches in the British Isles.  Be sure to visit the 11th-century chapel where fishermen once sought blessings for their catch before embarking out to sea.

The journey west to St Aubin, once famous for being the hometown of Bergerac, has now been transformed into a gastronomic haven.  This expansive bay is the largest and easiest to navigate and stretches from St Helier to the village of St Aubin, making it an ideal location to drop anchor and stay for dinner and sundowners.  As everywhere on the isle, Jersey’s exceptional culinary scene will not disappoint, but don’t miss out on a visit to the welcoming Royal Channel Islands Yacht Club and try their delicious moules à la crème.

One further top tip is to moor up in the small cove in Belcroute, which offers excellent shelter away from any strong winds.  Spend a leisurely day around the area and cruise to the picturesque St Aubin’s fort.  Located on a tidal island, it’s a perfect spot for a picnic.

Les Écréhous

Only 6 nautical miles off Jersey’s east coast is a real highlight of any sailing trip to the region; the spectacular offshore reefs of Les Écréhous.  Fishermen’s cottages dot these reefs, but there are no permanent residents – the true locals are the incredibly abundant and diverse selection of wildlife that calls this home.  As ever, the tides need careful management and the currents are incredibly strong, but this untouched islet is well worth the navigational challenge.

Silhouette of a bird facing right with its head raised, appearing to sing or call out.

It is here that you can feel a real sense of how special these islands really are.  This remote paradise has it all; golden sands, crystal-clear waters and spectacular sunsets.  Dolphins, grey seals and basking sharks share the waves so keep your approach to 5 knots and bask in the glory of this protected marine environment.

Les Minquiers

Further afield sits Les Minquiers— an even more isolated haven some 9 nautical miles off Jersey’s south coast.  At high tide, it resembles little more than a large rock with a few deserted houses perched on top, however low tide dramatically transforms it, revealing a natural landscape of lagoons and pools. With a surface area larger than the island of Jersey, it turns rock pooling into a national sport.

Black and white digital drawing of a sleeping bear under a tree in a snowy landscape, with outlines and shadows.

A word to the wise: only those highly confident (or rather, skilled) sailors should really venture here, as the treacherous underwater rocks require careful navigation, a calm day and slow speeds.  There are smattering of privately owned moorings which you can make use of until the owners turn up, or you can beach up, but be warned those ever-present tidal risks can cause you real trouble.  If you are unsure, but still want to see this incredible marine environment then join a group tour departing from the mainland.

Just off Les Minquiers, the Isle of Mitresse has the unusual distinction of hosting a public loo as the southernmost building in the British Isles.

A final Word

A voyage to the Channel Islands feels like the ultimate British sailing adventure.  From navigating the channel, to braving the tides, visiting charming harbours, to hiking clifftops and swimming in protected waters amongst majestic reefs, every island in this incredible archipelago offers distinct experiences.  However, each one rewards sailors with unique stunning vistas and unforgettable encounters, so it’s definitely worth taking your time.

Whilst St Helier may dazzle with cosmopolitan allure, there is something refreshingly nostalgic about the Channel Islands that transports you into what feels like the enchanting world of an Enid Blyton novel.  Here, it is the simple joys of sunlit beaches, rockpool explorations, savouring crab sandwiches in hidden coves, endless starry nights and unforgettable wildlife sightings that cast a golden hue over an already extraordinary sailing trip.

If you missed part 1 of our Channel Islands Sail, Moor, Eat guide, click below:

Part 1: A cruising guide to the Channel Islands
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